I bagged the whole instrument and case - you never know, rain, floods, volcanos...

Everything is now safely inside the shipping box and I will go to great lengths to seal it up 100% for a safe journey.

Everything seems to be working fine! I need to remember to take a bunch of glamor shots before I pack it up for shipping!.

Ihis slightly blurry photo shows the bass in its case with a protective material between the strings and the fingerboard and padding to protect and prevent movement.

I could have chosen not to do this and it would have been OK but since I am cursed with being a perfectionist I decided to play it safe and do it!

I re-machined the seat for the string retainer and now I will re-assemble and test everything.

The bass looks and feels great. With the lighter set of strings requested by my customer the playing touch is light and sound is good. Rotary selector provides some great sounding pickup combinations!

Bass is pretty much ready for my customer but I felt better having Mark take a final look at it and test the output and controls related to the magnetic pickups. Will go back and collect it tomorrow!

Moving along with the final dressing of frets and fingerboard surface and edges. Should have the strings back on soon for a final adjustment and test drive!!!

I applied a sealant and conditioner to the fingerboard surface. Takes a while to dry but looks great when applied!

Got some good results on the adjustment screw modifications so getting ready to reassemble everything!!

I got the three pickups re-installed in the bass and I will do the fine details of the height adjustment on each after the strings go back on.

Went all the way back to see my electronics expert as I wanted to get the MIDI, piezo, pickup selectors and preamp tested.

Test fitting the bass in its case - should workout perfectly!.

Lots of time going into this bass in its final stages to make sure it plays well and looks its best. Taking it tomorrow to the electronics guru to look at MIDIn.

Doing some surface cleanup and finishing work on the fingerboard.

Glad to get the MIDI tested- running this over to my electronics guy to clean up what appears to be a minor switching issue.

Just got home with the case for the instrument. I love these cases - they are lightweight and portable but still offer great protection for the instrument.

Doing some final wiring under the three selector switches and making sure the wires are tidied up!

Making sure the covers fit and then I am adding the retaining magnets so that they can be left in place on the instrument.

Covers are getting their individual retaining systems installed. Over the next 48 hours I will be having the eletronics checked at the shop of my electronics guru, and also picking up a case for this instrument!

I am going to be testing the MIDI output using a Boss and Roland sound modules. Will update on results!

I will have to drive to Fullerton to get this case but it will be worth the trip!

I have now installed the custom strap lock system into the front and back of the instrument body. As a headless instrument it will be very well balanced.

Bass is looking really nice. One of the few I have ever been able to make with matching front and back bookmatched grain.

Getting what should be the last ofthe electronics done in this monster. Ready for testing and setup and I'm getting a case for it too!

Mark creatyed a custon PCB which I can add to the existing system to complete it all. Big relief and I will be getting that done asap!.

I am getting ready to seal up this little PCB and hook it up top the internal electronics.

I will be installing this system on the bass -should work perfectly for a headless with a long upper horn!.

Iam marking out and drilling to mount the straplock hardware on the instrument.

I am almost certain that due to this bass being headless, it will fit into one of my favorite GUITAR cases which will keep everything very compact and extremely portable for a bass.

I had to find knobs that fit the non-us sized pots. All the gold harware will look really nice together!.

Almost done with all the back stuff.Willbe attaching the covers and adding some padding to the battery enclosures.

Working on nut, truss rod and bridge to get this instrument playing nice and comfortably.

Working on bridge heights and intonation right now.

Using some cool technology for a discrete battery level indicator.

A little more bench work to re-locate one of the three batteries to the spare cavity!.

I have found it very helpful to have a indicator that will provide warning that the LED battery is nearing replacement.

LEDs have been connected and set into the control cavity with everything else.

LED lighting is now operational so we're getting close to completing this monster!.

I have to create a connection between groups of fibers and the diameters of the required LEDs. Hardest part is just fitting everything between the existing electronics.

Fibers are cut to length and leveled and polished and I am now attaching the LED lamps.

Fortunately fiber optic cables can be bent at least a little with the careful application of heat. I'll bend these cables round the Glock hardware and get the connections established.

Fortunately fiber optic cables can be bent at least a little with the careful application of heat. I'll bend these cables round the Glock hardware and get the connections established.

There's not a lot of space left in the control cavity for the fibers and LEDs after the Glock went in but I will work my way around all that!.

First step is to test with a small light to separate the four fibers going to the 12th and 24th fret positions from the rest of the fibers.

Working on getting over to Palm Springs area to pick up the re-wired bass. Asson as I hear back from my electronics guy I will head out there.

Got the bass back from Mark and it's now back on my workbench where I will install the LEDs and get the illuminated side dots working.

Glock preamp is now being connected to the rest of the electronics in the instrument.

It was quite a lot of detective work to make sure Glock and RMC worked together. The units are being tested now so I should know more fairly soon!

My electronics guru told me he's starting from zero because it will yield a cleaner job for the new preamp hardware. He'sbusy with that right now. I have the LED components ready for installation too.

I am going to have to decide on a couple of colors for the side dots. I typically prefer blue or white for frets 12 and 24 and possibly amber for all the others.

Normally I consolidate several electronic tasks before driving to my friend's shop but in this case it really helps me to get the preamp etc finalized and get the bass back ready to make sound so I can do the final work.

I wwanted the strings to be on while the bass was in the wiring shop. I'll do all the adjustment refinements when I have the instrument back in my hands.

Glockenklang preamp has been safely delivered and I will get it unpacked and do some testing to see what I need to do to make it fit inside the control cavity alog with everyting else!

I was a bit worried about the spacing between the holes in the top plate but fortunately I can get all the Glock parts set inside the cavity - I will want to arrange them in the best possible way to provide space for the LEDs which I will be fitting on the fiber optics. I'll be busy but it looks do-able!!

I am making a small adjustment to the internal space in the control cavity as one of the Glock controls has a fairly significant circuit board attachment.

Based on sizes off of center of the pot on the drawings I machined a little clearance for the biggest Glock component. I hate machining aan already beautifully finished instrument body but I was extremely careful in this process!

Swapping preamp systems with somewhat different capabilites is challenging but it looks like the Glock that's coming in will work in the layout already eatablished in the control panel!!!.

Swapping preamp systems with somewhat different capabilites is challenging but it looks like the Glock that's coming in will work in the layout already eatablished in the control panel!!!.

I'm thinking of at least uninstalling the Audere preamp so that I can plan for Glock component placement and getting the LEDs for the fiber optics connected up.

I'm now looking at the space I have to work with inside the cavity. I'll have to be able to get the LEDs installed on the ends of the fibers and also comfortably house the Glock preamp. In the meantime - staying busy!!!.

Even in the non-covid world this particular Glock combo is hard to get since it's a less common build, especially with the 3-band option. I have been told there is one available but very hard to communicate directly right now.We should be OK from what I have learned.

After a lot of searching and background work the specific Glockenklang preamp we need it ordered and on its way.

The 1 pickup Glock configuration might be a solution for us - I will know more soon regarding the electronic compatibility and related challenges but it would be great to have a solution!!

From all the info I can gather this is the layout of the 1 pickup, 3-band Glock preamp that would work with the existing system and fit in the available space. If not it would be close in size and I am sure I could at least slightly modify the cavity!

This is the Glockenklang 3-band active/passive system. Seems like the best candidate if I can find a way to get it to fit inside the bass and add another potentiometer hole for the extra control!!!

I believe it is still a 3 band control unit. Since we are routing the 3 pickups through a rotary selector switch it seems that that output would work with this preamp - I'm asking a lot of questions right now to my suppliers and my electronics guy!

I'm looking at trying to get a 3-band Glockenklang that will fit in the control cavity area of the bass.

Right now I have a custom Audere preamp, an RMC MIDI setup, a rtary control to manage the 3-pickup system and a set of fiber optic cables that need to be connected to LEDs. Not much space left in there!

I have done a very careful job of wiring the small switch. These small switches are sensitive to too much heat so I want to test it before installing just to be sure soldering didn't compromise anything..

Getting the bridge units set up and I'm hoping to have it strung up and making noise soon.

These are some of the best strap buttons available. Easy to attach and look good on the instrument itself.

I added the two remaining wires to the tiny terminals of the switch and fitted it successfully next to the rotary selector switch. Now I just have to hook up the four connecting wires.

Output jack now in and selector switch re-installed. Next task is to wire up the phase switch.

I opted for wiring this mini-switch outside the cavity and then installing and connecting the wires. It would have been much harder to do this insider the cavity space.

I'm filing the sides and corners of the jack socket to allow the slightly larger than planned output socket to fit in the side of the bass.

I will attach this output plug to the body using a small plate similar to the MIDI output shown in the photo.

Feels good to have the electronics of the instrument resolved, I am now working on numerous tasks to get things closer to completion.

Adding the phase switch gives the 6-position pickup selector 12 different sounds.

Very good bews in that I now have the bass back in my care. Mark and I spent a good part of the afternoon discussing the final electronic details and we are moving forward!

I'm going to discretely install this gold switch to provide phase selection which creates a second set ouf sounds for the bass. I will also be fitting the new output socket we had to get.

The comination on this preamp frees up one position on the control panel so that we can add a blend pot.

I'm going to discretely install this gold switch to provide phase selection which creates a second set ouf sounds for the bass. I will also be fitting the new output socket we had to get.

Adding a dual potr would allow the unassigned wiring to be put to use and provide more options for teh player. As far as I understand we are fixing a problem by adding a new feature which is good.

This is a simplifed version of the revised drawing we all feel conficent will provide all the electronic features. I have to swap the Audere out for another Audere with an extra blend pot for it all to work!!!.

I don't completely understand the intricacies of the wiring but my electronics guy was able to send me updates showing the RMC unit and the rotary pickup selector have been wired tp piezos and pickups respectively.

Mark has the equipment to create quality soldered joints and electronically test the results. A lot of the work we have had to do has been finding ways to connect everything together and retain the functions we want on the instrument. Some of this work has involved out having to communicate with the preamp and MIDI processor manufacturers for technical specs. All above my head but I am glad we are almost there. We have narrowed everything down to the assignment of TWO remaining wires. Checking with manufacturers.

The RMC processor is remarkably small considering all it does. It has a huge amout of wires in and out of the unit though.

Some of the RMC wiring and some of the Audere preamp wiring plus power connections all have to go to the output jack to make this work correctly! .

We now have the Audere preamp which we know is compatible with the RMC MIDI system. We'll be working to get it all hooked up internally.

Pickup selector is set up, Audere preamp is fitted and being wired. We also ordered multi pin output jack to allow the various feeds and switching to operate correctly.

It has been a lot of work to get to a place where our preamp, piezo input, MIDI conversion and magnetic pickup output and processing all work happily together. I think we are just about there.

We are ALL working to seek the best electronic solution.

We are working on the task of having the MIDI system and preamp components talk to each other. We have been in touch with component manufacturers for their work-arounds. This all goes way deeper than my basic knowledge of electronics but I know they will work it out.

This is the output boqrd of the RMC Poly Drive which balances piezo input and converts to a selectable MIDI signal.

WThe three pickups have been wired through to the rotary selector switch. Right now we are trying to get the piezo signal to talk to the RMC MIDI components. My electronics guy says this one is pretty demanding in terms of making signals communicate the way we would like then to.

WThe three pickups have been wired through to the rotary selector switch. Right now we are trying to get the piezo signal to talk to the RMC MIDI components. My electronics guy says this one is pretty demanding in terms of making signals communicate the way we would like then to.

This is part of the RMC wiring that he is working on - I'm hoping to get a couple of photos of the bass on his bench and I will be going to pick up the finished wired instrument very soon!.

Working around the fibers which I will eventually trim and connect after all the wiring is safely completed.

This photo is from my electronics partner's workbench where he is wiring up this monster. Ititially he is cutting and connecting all the piezo wires from the bridge units to the little Richter mixing board in the new recess. He will test all these output signals and send the output from that board through to the blend pot. Glad he is doing this and not me!.

My finisher did an awesome job getting this little piece processed through finishing for me.

A little upgrade because I had the material - rather than normal black plastic plates I am making plates from a material that matches the wood.

The MIDI output socket is now set in place. I put gold screws in there but I think it would look more discrete withg black screws - we will see.

This is what the bass looks like with all its controls set in place. Glad this is all done - it was a lot of work.

Only need 3 strings to adequately test for sound and I don't want to spoil a new set (which I will put on when all is complete).

One more tricky little task out of the way - I can now fit all the hardware into the instrument!!.

We had to work for a white to get six power wires through from the battery recess to the control cavity.

Cutting out the new cover for the little recess for the Richter piezo card. I'll have it gloss finished to match the rest of the instrument and it will look awesome.

Carefully drilled a connecting hole for the piezo wiring in and out.

So far so good - all going well. I'm going to make it just deep enough to clear the mechanical connections on the board.

I gave the recess a coat of sealer to stabilize the bare wood. I will cut a lid and get that fitted and finished. Now back to the remaining work on the electronics!.

I was going to locate this pocket per my last photo but I didn't want the piezo wiring and the related output to have to cross the entire control cavity if it didn't have to. There is just enough space at the back end to add the same feature. Very busy as I want to get this done and back to final wirng.

I will cut a very closely matching piece of the same material and have it finished to match this cover area really well. Right now the challenge is to machine it and avoid chipping the surface finish.

This is why I always keep the offcuts of the wood I use on instruments. THis is the same piece from which the back material was cut and I will match the grain before cutting the cover.

Fortunately I have a ver good matching piece of Amboyna Burl that will work very wel in this area.

Having the strings attached lets us test both the piezo signals and the magnetic signals.

The only way we can incorporate this Richter feature is to cut a recess for the board to cooupy and create a carefully matched amboyna cover which I will have my finisher prepare to perfectly match the area.

Having the strings attached lets us test both the piezo signals and the magnetic signals.

This photo was taken just after I established locations for each of the electronic components but before I added the two holed for mini toggle switches.

The connection of all the electronic hardware si a little tricky but my electronics partner says it will be no problem! Piezos, MIDI, and lots of pickup selections.

I am very lucky to have an electronics guru within a couple of hours drive who understands complicated MIDI systens like this one!!!.

I'm cutting string slots in the nut so that we have some strings on the instrument when testing the pickup and MIDI signals.

Having the strings attached lets us test both the piezo signals and the magnetic signals.

Very high tech string retainer now fixed to the neck - I'm adding the nut also and we will be ready for wiring.

Getting the nut blank established n the neck.

IAdding soem nice decorative sleeves to finish the back of the headstock.

These sleeves are a nice way to finish off the back of the headstock.

These counterbores take care of all the controls except for the RMC Midi control. I will probably use a smaller knob for that pot so it won't need a counterbore. If it does I will just repeat this operation for that control knob position.

I'm sealing the exposed wood fron the counterbores into which the knobs will fit.

When you consider there will be LED connections and the Richter piezo curcuit board I have to be very careful that everything goes in comfortably. The circuit board will go in top right abiove the RMC midi control. Phew!.

The rlief allows space for the locking washer to grip over the potentiometer threads and also keep from having too much space between the top of the bass and the bottom of the knobs.